RE-FORM THE NORM

Period: March 2025 – April 2025
Location: Europejskie Centrum Solidarności, Gdańsk

How is a standard created? What criteria is it tailored to? What can the length of the pants and the depth of the pockets tell us about the world? The RE-FORM THE NORM project asks these and many other questions in relation to the seemingly trivial issue of work and protective clothing for women.

The maritime industry is stereotypically seen as a male-dominated. It’s hard to be surprised by this, as women indeed constitute a minority in workplaces. This situation translates into working conditions, often resulting in mismatches, sometimes literal ones. During a several-month-long research and artistic process, we observed how jackets, overalls, and gloves affect women’s well-being and their safety at work. The stories we heard and the clothing we saw reinforced our conviction that the topic is relevant, and the RE-FORM THE NORM project is necessary.

When talking about the mismatch of the male standard to the female body, we refer to a number of inequalities present in design norms—in urban planning, transportation, and everyday objects. We bring into question the issue of norm and uni-form. Workwear in the maritime industry is just one example of a male-centric shaping of reality. Thanks to researchers like Caroline Criado-Perez and Rebekka Endler, we are noticing this more clearly.

The exhibition presents analyses of sizes, styles, and their usability, but also conceptual stories about discomfort, risk, and dignity. In response to the identified issues, we also present good practices that show that change is possible.

The exhibition is one of the five exhibitions of Horizon Europe Project RE-WIRING. RE-WIRING has received funding from the European Union’s Horizon Europe research and innovation program under Grant Agreement n° 101094497.

Special thanks go to: respondents of the research survey, participants of the photo sessions, the Women of the Maritime Industry Association INSPIRA, Gdynia Maritime University, and Marzena Rzeplińska from AS BHP Workwear.

“There are no coveralls or pants in my height. If I do find them, they are too tight in the hips, so I end up wearing ones that are too long anyway. When I had a set tailored to my size, the pants had such a low waist that they were impossible to work in. Usually, the pant legs are very wide, the crotch is too low, and if it’s hot, they chafe me.”

„The pockets in coveralls are small and increasingly lack zippers. This makes carrying a phone risky—it often falls overboard or from great heights.”

„Highlighting women and girls as a marketing gimmick is counterproductive. It ridicules something we urgently need and demand in many (other) aspects: things designed to fit us. At the same time, this hellish marketing creates an effect known in sociology as othering. Artificially emphasized distinctions reinforce a sense of separateness.” – Rebekka Endler

The issue with the uni-form has a long history. Workers at the now-defunct Gdańsk Shipyard were well aware of the problem of ill-fitting clothing. Since the 1950s, official gender equality existed in the Polish labor market. In reality, however, female shipyard workers were forced to stuff their oversized, assigned shoes with newspapers and straw. Voices of protest were heard in public forums – one example being Stanisława Warda’s speech at the 5th Plenum of the Central Council of Trade Unions, published in the biweekly Metalowiec: “The issue of work and protective clothing should be resolved as soon as possible. This concerns not only its quality but also the introduction of new designs.”

How quickly can you tighten a screw? Sign your name on a piece of paper? How long would it take you to unbutton a heavy winter coat?

Now, imagine that most women in the maritime industry are forced to use gloves that are too big. To perform a precise task—like writing something down—they have to take them off.

“The job requires additional equipment: gloves, glasses, and a helmet. The sizes are universal and poorly fitted.”

“Dust masks vary, and sometimes they can’t be adjusted to fit the face properly. I wear my helmet at its smallest possible setting.”

Nowadays, women in the maritime industry are represented by international and local organizations advocating for a high-quality work environment and equal treatment. These include the INSPIRA Women in Maritime Association, WISTA International (Women’s International Shipping & Trading Association), WISTA Poland. Through events and published content, these organizations help raise awareness of what constitutes a safe and sustainable workplace.

In the clothing and accessories market, brands tailored to the needs of the female body can be easily found. Some make this their strength, emphasizing their commitment to business based on equality. One example is the Norwegian brand Wenaas.

However, we observe a gap between the need and it’s fulfillment. The maritime industry is characterized by high intensity and a fast-paced work environment, with women remaining a numerical minority—particularly in production-related roles. In logistics agencies or accounting departments, the disparity takes a different form, as women outnumber men. The industry has significant progress to make. Recognizing diversity benefits everyone, regardless of gender—it is, after all, a fundamental aspect of equality policies.

Colophon

Curation, concept, coordination: Aneta Lehmann.
Design, exhibition production: Aneta Bursiewicz.
Photography: Daria Szczygieł.
Specialist knowledge: Anna Miller.
Graphic design: Patrycja Mróz.
Editing: Beata Dyszyńska.
Photography exhibition photos: Jan Rusek.

Univeristy of Gdańsk Project Team: Natasza Kosakowska-Berezecka, Julia Stekla.
European Solidarity Centre Project Team: Magdalena Fryze-Seroka, Iwona Katarzyńska-Czaplewska, Marta Szymańska.